The last couple of days have been hectic! I went from Amman to Aqaba through the Dead Sea, Petra (mon amour) and finally I crossed the border with Israel yesterday morning.
Israeli passport stamp
Unfortunately I got my passport stamped, even if I asked for a separate stamp… but the woman at the passport control didn’t like my many Egyptian stamps and asked many, many questions. Each time I replied, she reacted with a grimace of disapproval, and I was being nice and smily and all. Then, after an endless series of questions about my Egyptian experiences, she stamped my passport. I wasn’t smiling anymore. I told her “but I asked for a separate stamp!” – she looked at me with a defiant attitude and shook her head. I have to admit I replied with a bitter “thank you!” and walked away. The next thing I knew was that I was in Israel and the taxi driver was saying “Shalom!” and I thought “Shalom my foot!”, but then I started to relax.
So long story short, after waiting 5 hours in the extreme heat of Eilat and another 5 hours bus ride (with wifi, cool!), I finally arrived to Jerusalem!
While still on the bus, at some point I checked my GPS and realized we were crossing the West Bank, all the way east to west. And I thought “What? Really? The West Bank? Is that so easy? Is that it?” – For some reason I thought it wasn’t possible to cross the area without going through endless security checks, but. So that was the first surprise!
When we arrived to Jerusalem from the eastern side, I saw all these ultra-orthodox Jewish people with their typical dresses and I had the clear feeling of being in a different world. No kidding. And I have to say I loved the feeling! It was a very exciting moment, followed by a less exciting long wait for the tram, but an easy ride to my destination: Ha Davidka tram stop, to check in at the uber-cool Abraham Hostel.
Actually there is a story behind this too: when I got off the tram I realized I didn’t know the exact address of the hostel, so I started walking around “feeling lucky” but of course I ended up in the opposite direction. I then asked to some people in the street, and they very kindly looked for the address on the internet and a girl went the extra mile showing me the way to the hostel. On our way there we started talking and she told me she is from Jerusalem, she just quit her job and she wants to travel the world but she’s scared. I told her there’s nothing to worry about, and to go for it! I didn’t even ask for her name, but I wish her all the best and safe travels to any amazing destination she’s been dreaming of!
I had a very nice and long sleep until this morning, when I started my day with a lovely breakfast at the hostel, and then decided to join the (free!) Jerusalem Old City Tour proposed by the hostel’s staff. Why not? I ended up meeting some fellow travelers and having a good time around the Old City. Here are some photos about the day!
Old Jerusalem, the Muslim Quarter
The Old City of Jerusalem
The Old City of Jerusalem
The Church of Holy Sepulchre
The Christian Quarter
The markets in Old Jerusalem
The Western Wall – through the fence
The Western Wall, women praying
Funny t-shirts in Old Jerusalem
A guy reading something about Gheddafi… wondering what it was about?
Old Jerusalem as seen from the rooftops
Overlooking the Western Wall
On the rooftops of Old Jerusalem
Women praying at the Western Wall
A tailor in the Muslim Quarter
Visit Palestine! Vintage poster
Via Dolorosa, “Way of Grief”, Old Jerusalem
Sweet dreams…
Just a random photo on the street in Jerusalem
The Old City of Jerusalem
Damascus Gate, Old Jerusalem
On the way back to the hostel, we stopped on a side road of Jaffa Street for some truly delicious falafel.
Me eating falafel laffa in Jerusalem
Another highlight of the day was the “Hebrew lesson for travelers” I got for free at the hostel once back. That was fun!
Hebrew class at Abraham Hostel, Jerusalem
Well, what can I say, I am liking this place much more than I thought so far, and I am off to a kibbutz tomorrow. Getting into the mood… :)
Great first day in Jerusalem, Giulia! I’m glad you got to take the free Old City tour. I did that once myself. It’s quite educational and an excellent way to experience the Old City for the first time.
The Palestine poster is quite popular in Jerusalem, I see it many places. I don’t think it’s possible that you could have been in the West Bank at all, though. Since Eilat is on the southWestern side of the country and Jerusalem is roughly in the middle, you wouldn’t have had to pass through the West Bank on the east side of the country at all. Plus I think you’re right that you can’t get to the West Bank without going through checkpoints. I never have. I hope you get there during this trip, though – especially Bethlehem and Nablus.
I’m looking forward to your next update!
Sabina recently posted..The Frankincense of Salalah, Oman
Thanks Sabina:)
Well we actually passed through the West Bank as we took the Dead Sea highway and I followed the route on my GPS… maybe for buses on the highway it’s ok to cross. I don’t know how it works!
Oh and I won’t make it to Nablus this time. I will go to Betlehem though… There’s so much to do in Israel!
Giulia recently posted..I’m in Israel!
Yay! Glad you made it fine and sorry you had a bad experience crossing the border but it’s not too surprising. Can’t wait to hear more about your trip!
Well, that was interesting! Thanks for following my adventures and I will be posting more soon:)
Giulia recently posted..I’m in Israel!
It’s fucking called “Palestine” !!!
Aly, I am not deleting your comment just so that everyone can see the nonsense of what you say. I know what you mean. But my visa says Israel. Can you for once open up your mind? I don’t even feel like arguing on this one. Thanks.
Giulia recently posted..I’m in Israel!
The Dead Sea highway goes through Area C of the West Bank, which is under full Israeli civil and security control. While it is within the Green Line, most Israelis treat Area C the same as Israel proper. About 70% of the West Bank is Area C. It’s a complicated place! If you Google a map of Areas A, B and C you will see that the Palestinian Authority has jurisdiction over only a small part of the West Bank, mainly the cities.
Thank you very much for your information, I had no idea about “area C”. What I meant though, is that as a first time visitor and always having heard of Israel from the media, it looked weird to see the bus taking that route. I hope you understand what I mean!
Thanks for the super interesting comment:)
Giulia recently posted..About me being in Israel and people criticizing it
Luv! I miss Israel/Palestine so much. In fact, I;m just writing a series about my hitchhiking adventures and a solo Middle Eastern road trip I took. Your photos are lovely and brought me back to my trip *deep sigh* great mems
-Maria Alexandra
Maria Alexandra recently posted..Hitchhiking Israel solo: Trespassing and Mount of Beatitudes (part 4)
Thanks for sharing your memories with me, Maria Alexandra:) It would be cool to read your series!
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Hi Giulia, I’m new to your travel blog and I love it! Your photos are amazing! I’d love to know if you had any problems getting back into Egypt after your passport was stamped in Israel?? Thanks!
Kimberley Casey recently posted..My Disgusting Backpack – Step-by-step guide to Cleaning Your Backpack
Hey Kimberley, nice to meet you! I didn’t have any problem whatsoever crossing the border to Egypt. I have to say though that when I cross the border from Jordan to Israel the officer was not happy with my Egyptian stamps and asked many questions… anyway nothing serious. There is no issue. The only countries that can technically refuse your entry with an Israeli stamp on your passport are Iran, Lebanon, Syria. Let me know if you need more info/help!